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Italiaans-Amerikaanse kersmaal by James Beard House

Italiaans-Amerikaanse kersmaal by James Beard House


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Die 'Godfather of Italian-American Cooking' om 'n voorsmakie van South Philadelphia in Manhattan te bedien

Steve Martorano, 'n danser, DJ en liggaamsbouer van South Philadelphia, het 20 jaar gelede sy gelyknamige Café Martorano geopen in Fort Lauderdale, Fla. rol en R&B klankbaan. Martorano het sy kulinêre passies sedertdien gekanaliseer in 'n handelsmerk en lewenswyse genaamd "Yo Cuz!", En hy het selfs sy eie reeks pasta -souse.

Die stewige sjef-wat vanweë drie verstopte are teruggekeer het van 'n triple-bypass-operasie-sal op 14 Desember om 19:00 'n Italiaans-Amerikaanse Kersete by die James Beard House voorberei. Martorano is bekend daarvoor dat hy Italiaans-Amerikaanse bestanddele geneem en herinterpreteer het, terwyl hy steeds die integriteit van die gereg se bestanddele behou (geen dekonstruksie hier nie). Hoogtepunte van die maaltyd sluit in 'n mortadella-smeer gemaak van die eens verbode vleis, gepureer en bedien op geroosterde knoffelbrood, en 'n gehaktballetjie wat deur die tydskrif Gourmet geprys word. Die aandete kos $ 170, en besprekings kan gemaak word deur 212-627-2308 te skakel.


James Beard ’s Roast Beef Hash

U het pas beland op die gewildste pos ooit op Chewing the Fat. Dit is 19 245 keer gelees en getel. Dit is so gewild in ons huis, dat ek dadelik ontslaan is toe ek aan Andrew voorstel dat ek 'n nuwe weergawe van hierdie Kersfees -braaivleis wil probeer om dit te maak. Hou by die oorspronklike resep, sonder om onseker te wees. Nou hou ek regtig van hierdie resep, so ek herdruk dit presies soos dit die eerste keer verskyn het. Maar voordat u wegstorm en dit gaarmaak, wil u miskien kyk na 'n ander hasjresep wat die vyfde verjaardag vir die kou van die vet vier. U vind dit hier: http://chewthefat.us.com/2014/10/sheila-lukins-roast-beef-and-vegetable.html. Maar ek, ek hou by die oorspronklike resep, want ek weet wat goed is vir my.

Hash bewys dat die oorblyfsels dikwels so goed is as die regte ding.

Hierdie week het die New York Times 'Dining Dining' 'n voorbladartikel met die titel 'Lucky to Be a Leftover'. Daarin was 'n paar merkwaardige idees van mense oral wat gehaktballetjies gemaak het van vakansiehamme (geen resep vir die een nie en ek wou dit nie!), Tot Kalfsvleis Pojarski, gemaak van gebraaide kalfsvleis, vark of beesvleis en 'n spesialiteit daarvan twee Montreal Chefs-of-the-Moment, Joe Beef se eie Dave McMillan en Frederic Morin. Die Montrealers probeer 'n gebraaide been in die resulterende frikkadelle steek. Die ding lyk fenomenaal goed. Maar vir my is die beste ding om te doen met die pragtige middelpunt van ons Kersdag -tafel, ons staande ribgebraaide beesvleis, om Roast Beef Hash te maak.

Ode aan Groot Hash

Nou hou ek van hasj. Veral as daar baie vleis is en die gebraaide gebraai nie doodgemaak is nie. Daar is 'n baie goeie hash by Bobby Van's Restaurant in Bridgehampton (2393 Main Street, Tel: (631) 537-0590). Dit is vol geur en knapperige hash browns. Soms sien ek 'n duidelike laer vleisinhoud. Ek stel dit altyd neer op hoeveel Prime Rib die plek is het oorgebly van die vorige aand. As ek ons ​​eie Roast Beef Hash maak, kan ek effens mal raak met die beesvleis. Die oorspronklike resep vir vandag se berig het slegs 2 koppies koue gebraaide beesvleis en 'n identiese volume Yukon -goue aartappels vereis. Ek hou die aartappels by 2 koppies en verhoog die beesvleis tot ongeveer 4. En dit is geen dieetgereg nie. Nie met 'n halwe koppie room daarin nie. Ek is seker dat u 'n gelyke hoeveelheid beesvleis in die plek daarvan kan vervang, maar dit sou nie iets wees wat James Beard sou aanbeveel nie.

Wie was hierdie man met die naam James Beard?

James Beard was een van die vooraanstaande kokke wat die manier waarop Amerikaners geëet het, werklik verander het. Hy stel die vreugdes van die Franse kookkuns bekend aan 'n generasie wat op vleis en aartappels grootgemaak is. Hy was 'n reus van 'n man, ruim 6 voet lank en 'n ruim omtrek. Hy was ook 'n ongelooflike vrugbare persoon skrywer wat daarin slaag om ongeveer 20 boeke en talle tydskrifartikels saam te stel. Hierdie opbrengs is veral verstommend, aangesien Beard eers vroeg in sy lewe sy kookkuns gekry het. Hy is gebore in 1903 en verhuis in 1937 na New York vanuit sy geboorteland, Portland, Oregon. Hy en 'n vriend met die naam Bill Rhodes het 'n spysenieringsonderneming begin met die naam Hors d'Oeuvres, Inc. Hy het sy eerste boek oor Hors d'Oeuvres in 1940 geskryf. Rantsoenering in oorlogstyd het sy sake gedoen. Maar hy was goed op pad om 'n kookkuns te word en in 1946 verskyn hy op 'n nuwe televisieprogram genaamd "I Love om te eet ”. En daar was waarskynlik nie meer 'n geskikte titel vir enigiets waarin James Beard sou verskyn nie.

Die herinneringe aan James Beard en sy resepte bly staan.

Die man was die volmaakte eter en onderwyser. Op reis deur die land stel hy dit voor aan goeie kos gemaak met vars, heilsame Amerikaanse bestanddele. Hy was een van die eerste sjefs wat ''n handelsmerk' geword het en het "die naam, gesig en buik van die Amerikaanse gastronomie geword" volgens die skrywer David Kamp in sy wonderlike boek "The United States of Arugula: The Sun-Dried, Cold- geperste, donkergeroosterde, ekstra maagdelike verhaal van die Amerikaanse voedselrevolusie. New York: Broadway Books, 2006. James Beard het 'n loopbaan gehad wat eers geëindig het met sy dood op 81 -jarige ouderdom in 1985. Gelukkig het hy leef voort in sy gelyknamige stigting: Die James Beard -stigting is ter ere van hom gestig en werk voort uit sy voormalige meenthuis in Greenwich Village. Die plek is oop vir privaat partytjies en ons was gelukkig om na verskeie uitgenooi te word. Die kombuis bly amper soos hy dit verlaat het. En elke Mei word die gesogte James Beard Foundation -toekennings uitgedeel aan 'n ongelooflik uiteenlopende groep professionele persone in die voedselbedryf, van sjefs tot restaurantontwerpers.

Hierdie resep maak 'n hash -liefhebber van omtrent almal.

Maar terug na die hasj. Baard was 'n ware hash -liefhebber. Hy was mal oor die goed en het 'n paar verrassende variasies gemaak. Sy resepte bevat nie net koringvleis -hoender of hoenderhaas nie, maar bevat ook een vir mossel -hasj. Maar vir vandag bly ons by hierdie resep wat die eerste keer verskyn het in James Beard se American Cookery (Little, Brown, 1972). Dit is 'n wonderlike hartige hasj wat, met die byvoeging van 'n gestroopte eier, 'n heerlike ontbyt sou maak. Ons s'n het egter tydens aandete geëet. Hier is die resep en daarna 'n skakel na 'n paar ander hash -resepte waarvan ons hou:


Fees van die sewe visse: 'n ryk tradisie wat in Suid -Jersey bewaar word

NABY

Die sjef Joey Baldino berei gebakte garnale met knoffel en geroosterde sardientjies met salsa verde. Cherry Hill Courier-Post

Geroosterde sardientjies met 'n salsa verde van sjef Joey Baldino van Zeppoli in Collingswood. (Foto: JOE LAMBERTI/COURIER POST-USA TODAY NETWORK NJ)

Die aand voor Kersfees begin 'n verskeidenheid seekos op 'n paar etenstafels verskyn as 'n simboliese manier om die heilige vakansie in te skakel.

Die tradisie van onthouding van vleis en vis eet voor 'n vakansie het eeue gelede begin as 'n Rooms -Katolieke praktyk in baie dele van Italië, waar die tipe en aantal visse en die bereiding per streek verskil.

Die spesiaal genoemde Fees van die sewe visse is egter 'n Italiaans-Amerikaanse tradisie wat begin is deur Italiaanse immigrante wat hul moederland verlaat het om werk en welvaart in die VSA te soek, volgens kookkundiges en sjefs.

Die tradisionele kabeljou (baccala), of dit nou vars of gehidreerde, gesoute en gedroogde kabeljou smelt, sardientjies, garnale, seekatmossels of ander is baie gereeld op die spyskaart. Die getal moet ten minste sewe - sewe soorte seekos in sop, voorgeregte en voorgeregte wees, of een of meer soorte seekos wat in sewe verskillende resepgeregte berei word.

En nie net Italiaans-Amerikaanse gesinne nie, maar ander liefhebbers van seekos kan die feesmaal geniet, of dit nou in 'n restaurant bedien word of tuis gemaak word.

Gebraaide garnale met knoffel en pietersielie van sjef Joey Baldino van Zeppoli in Collingswood. (Foto: JOE LAMBERTI/COURIER POST-USA TODAY NETWORK NJ)

By die huis vir die vakansie

Gewoonlik kan sjef Joey Baldino maaltye met vars bestanddele kook in sy intieme Italiaanse restaurant Zeppoli in Collingslaan in Collingswood of by die privaat Palizzi Social Club in Suid -Philadelphia, maar nie op Oukersaand nie.

Zeppoli, 'n BYOB met 'n Suid-Italiaanse en Siciliaanse spyskaart, sal die aand gesluit word, want die sewe keer halfeindronde van die James Beard-kookkompetisie sal sy fees van 24 Desember met sy Italiaanse familie en vriende by 'n neef se huis deel in Suid -Philadelphia.

Daar het Baldino gesê dat hulle 'n tradisionele "La Vigilia di Natale" -ete (Oukersaand) vars voorberei en verslind, met sewe of selfs meer seekosgeregte soos vars geroosterde sardientjies met hele salsa verde, ongeskilde garnale wat in soutende olyfolie gebraai word met druppels en alles oor wit cannellinibone en cioppino, 'n seekosbredie met sous.

Sjef en eienaar Joey Baldino van Zeppoli in Collingswood. (Foto: JOE LAMBERTI/COURIER POST-USA TODAY NETWORK NJ)

'Vir my dink ek dat die Seven Fishes-gewoonte 'n heilige tradisie is wat die beste by die huis gehou kan word saam met familie en vriende,' het die 41-jarige Baldino by Zeppoli gesê voordat hy die garnaal- en boontjiegereg wat gereeld gereël word, skoonmaak en kook. spyskaartkeuse by Zeppoli, saam met 'n seekosbredie. Baldino se familie kom uit beide Sicilië en Calabrië, en beide streke beïnvloed sy spyskaarte.

NABY

Zeppoli-sjef Joey Baldino berei 'n braai in Siciliaanse styl voor vir vriende en familie agter sy restaurant in Collingswood, N.J. Cherry Hill Courier-Post

"My tante Mary het altyd vir 20 mense alles gekook, en nou doen my neef Al, haar seun, dit sedert sy oorlede is. Ek bring die vars vis," verduidelik hy en voeg by dat hy sy liefde vir kook by sy tante in Calabrië ontwikkel het.

'Vir ons is die baccala die aand sout en gedroogde kabeljou wat ons kook nadat ons dit twee dae lank geweek het,' het die hoof gesê.

Baldino het gesê dat die immigrantetradisie meer as 100 jaar gelede begin het toe baie Italianers in Amerika aangekom het, maar presies waar, wanneer of watter gesinne dit begin het, bly 'n raaisel.

En die belangrikheid van die nommer sewe kan ook bespreek word, hoewel die getal - wat honderde kere in die Bybel herhaal word - na een of meer van die volgende kan verwys: die sewe sakramente, soos die doop en die huwelik van die sewe deugde gedurende die sewe skeppingsdae, of selfs die sewe dodelike sondes.

'Dinner at the Club ' vertel die verhaal van die Palizzi Social Club deur die genomineerde James Beard, Joey Baldino, en mede-outeur/kosskrywer Adam Erace. (Foto: Running Press)

Baldino bestee 'n gedeelte aan die fees in sy pas gepubliseerde, eerste kookboek, "Dinner at the Club: 100 Years of Stories and Recipes from South Philly's Palizzi Social Club", waar hy die president is. Die medeskrywer van die boek is die kos- en reisskrywer Adam Erace, ook van South Philly, wat 10 jaar lank as restaurantkritikus vir die Courier-Post gedien het.

Baldino maak hierdie jaar 'n uitsondering deur in te stem om 'n spesiale Seven Fishes -feesmaal in New York te kook, maar nie op Oukersaand nie.

Die James Beard -stigting het Baldino en twee sjefs van 'n restaurant in New York uitgenooi om die jaarlikse ete in die Beard House in Manhattan op 17 Desember voor te berei om die vakansie -kookkuns te wys.

'Hierdie jaar het ons sewe maal die beste sjef genooi: die half-finalis in die middel-Atlantiese Oseaan, Joseph Baldino van Zeppoli, en Angie Rito en Scott Tacinelli van die lofwaardige West Village-plek Don Angie vir hul innoverende, onweerstaanbare en volhoubare opvatting oor hierdie heilige Italiaanse fees, ”het die stigting in 'n verklaring gesê.

Sy programmeringsdirekteur, Izabela Wojcik, het gesê dat die Beard House 'n lang en ryk geskiedenis het om die gereeldheid van die Amerikaanse kombuis en die sjefs en restaurante agter die verhaal te vier.

"Een van ons gunsteling temas binne daardie konteks is om wêreldwye vakansiedae en tradisies ten toon te stel wat diners met die streek verbind, maar wat ook spreek tot erfenis en gemeenskap. En natuurlik beteken Desember die Italiaans-Amerikaanse Kerstradisie van die Fees van die Sewe Visse, 'het sy gesê en Baldino' so 'n talent 'genoem.

Zeppoli in Collingswood is aangewys as die beste nuwe restaurant die jaar toe dit deur die James Beard -stigting gekwalifiseer is. Die eienaar daarvan, sjef Joey Baldino, is sewe keer aangewys as die beste Mid-Atlantiese sjef. (Foto: JOE LAMBERTI/COURIER POST-USA TODAY NETWORK NJ)

Sewe visse vir almal

"Jy hoef nie Italiaans te wees om 'n Seven Fishes -ete te eet nie. Ons woonbuurt het meer divers geword as ooit en baie nuwelinge het die tradisie aangeneem en dit hul eie gemaak," skryf Baldino in sy boek.

Eienaar-sjef Alberto Delbello van Il Portico Ristorante Italiano in Burlington City kon nie meer saamstem nie.

"Die aandete met sewe visse is nie meer net 'n Italiaans-Amerikaanse tradisie nie, maar het 'n Amerikaanse tradisie geword wat deur almal geniet kan word." hy het gesê. 'En u kan tilapia of ander meer gewilde vissoorte hier vervang met tradisionele vis soos kabeljou, of u kan ook vleiskeuses aanbied, want Amerika is nie almal Italiaans nie.'

Sy restaurant is een van diegene wat die uitgebreide aandete teen 'n prys van $ 50 of hoër by sommige restaurante aanbied.

Een van die voorgeregte op Delbello se spyskaart met die Romeins-Joodse kookkuns is fettuccine met diverse seekos in 'n ligte tamatiesous. Daar sal ses hoofgeregte met een hoendergereg aangebied word vir diegene wat nie seekos kan of wil eet nie.

Op 24 Desember is minestra di pesce, visgebaseerde sop, 'n moet-voorgereg in Rome, Italië, waar Delbello gebore is. Hy het ook restaurante daar en regoor die wêreld besit, wat dikwels bekendes bedien. Sy feestesop by Il Portico sal kreefbisque wees en die baccala in geregte is nooit die soutgedroogde tipe wat gewild is in Suid-Italië nie, maar altyd vars soos in Rome.

Intussen bied DiPaolo se Italiaanse Ristorante in Penns Grove ook vleisgeregte van beesvleis, ham en varkvleis saam met sewe visgeregte, waaronder krapkoeke en seekatte wat in buffetvorm bedien word.

Nunzio's in Collingswood en La Girasole in Atlantic City is ook een van die restaurante wat die Kersfeesfees aanbied. Besprekings word aanbeveel by alle restaurantfeeste.

Pannetone, 'n soet brood met rosyne en ander gedroogde vrugte, is een van die tradisionele nageregte van La Vigilia. Dit word tuisgemaak by Nunzio's, waar maaltye reeds om 13:30 begin.

Die sjef en eienaar Joey Baldino berei 'n gebraaide garnale voor by Zeppoli in Collingswood. (Foto: JOE LAMBERTI/COURIER POST-USA TODAY NETWORK NJ)

'Hou die Italiaanse gebruik aan die gang'

John Alexander van Edgewater Park is half Italiaans en 'n gereelde kliënt by Il Portico, maar op Kersaand bied hy sy eie sewe visete by die huis aan.

"My Ulissi -gesin van Abruzzo het baccala geëet en gesmelt toe ek klein was. Ek het dit self meer as 30 jaar gelede opgetel nadat ek daaroor in kosblaaie gelees het. Dit is duur met moeilike resepte en moeilik om te doen, veral omdat vis nie kan nie kan maklik vooruit gekook word, 'het hy gesê,' maar ek hou daarvan om vriende en die hele gesin te hê, van ouer lede na die kinders, en om die Italiaanse aandete aan die gang te hou. '

'My aandete draai oor garnale (gewoonlik 'n koue skemerkelkie, maar ook warm op bruschetta met cannellini -boontjies), sint -jakobsschelpe, mossels en pasta en gebakte flunder of monkfish.'

Vir kleiner, tradisionele geregte bied hy gebraaide oesters, gebraaide calamari, kreef-/sint -jakobssoppies en smelt, maar voeg ook paling -sushi by wat hy by die Japannese restaurant Sagami in Collingswood geleer het.

'Ek maak elke jaar 'n baccala van gedroogde kabeljou en rooi sous met brood, want dit is die ou tradisie - en elke jaar eet net een of twee mense dit,' het hy gesinspeel op die baie soute smaak wat 'n paar van sy gaste aantrek.

"Die volgende oggend het ek Champagne en kaviaar vir ontbyt, bagels en lox en latkes met appelsous - die perfekte verjaardagbrunch om die geboorte van die klein Joodse seuntjie Jesus te vier!"

Carol Comegno vertel graag stories oor die geskiedenis van Suid -Jersey en ons militêre veterane. Haar boek, "The Battleship USS New Jersey: From Birth to Berth", is die definitiewe geskiedenis van die slagskip. Bel haar by 856-486-2473 of stuur 'n e-pos aan [email protected] as u 'n storie wil deel.

Help om plaaslike joernalistiek te ondersteun met 'n Courier-Post-intekening.


Droë beesvleis

Die proses gebruik die natuurlike ensieme van die vleis, tesame met die verloop van tyd, om die vleis stadig sag te maak en die geur te verbeter. Deur gebruik te maak van spesiale vleiskoelers en uitgebreide kookkuns, vervaardig Francesca al hul eie beesvleis in droë ouderdom. Hierdie besonderse steaks word as 'n spesiale aandete in groot hoeveelhede bedien. Kontak die restaurant vir inligting oor daaglikse aanbiedinge.

"Dit is altyd 'n spesiale bederf om by Francesca's Cucina te eet. Gisteraand het ek en my vriendin Anna by jou wonderlike restaurant geëet voordat ons 'n toneelstuk by die Syracuse Stage gaan sien het. Michael is so 'n warm en vriendelike kelner - laat almal welkom voel en spesiaal. Hy is 'n wonderlike ambassadeur vir die Francesca's Cucina. Die kos was, soos altyd, ongelooflik lekker. Jou restaurant het 'n warm en gemaklike gevoel - baie spesiaal. Baie dankie. "

Michelle Llein, Jamesville, NY

"Ek wou net skryf om jou te vertel hoe lekker ons die afgelope naweek op die stoep gehad het. Die kos was om voor te sterf, maar die lewendige musiek het ons aand regtig baie pret gemaak! Ek hoop dat u meer aande sal aanbied soos hierdie in die nabye toekoms. Ons kom binnekort terug! "

Om by Francesca's Cucina in die sentrum van Syracuse in te loop, is soos om in 'n restaurant in 'n film te stap. Met die dowwe beligting, skerp, spierwit tafeldoeke, blootgestelde baksteenmure en meer bottels vino as mense, is hierdie 6-jarige skat in Klein Italië die plek waar Billy Joel in sing "Scenes from a Italian Restaurant" . "

M. Murphy - The Daily Orange

"Buitengewone is die enigste manier om die Cucina van Francesca te beskryf. Of dit nou 'n intieme ete vir ons twee of 'n privaat partytjie is, die hele ervaring is uit die boonste rakke. Die talle daaglikse aanbiedinge is 'n kompliment vir die reeds fantastiese spyskaarte van as 'n gereelde beskermheer, kan ek eerlik sê: van die oplettende en vriendelike personeel tot die gesellige atmosfeer en 'n heerlike spyskaart, is Francesca's 'n ongeëwenaarde eetervaring. "

Laat ek eers net sê dat ek van u restaurant hou. Ek en my verloofde eet gereeld daar en het elke keer 'n wonderlike ervaring. Een van die dinge waarvan ek die meeste hou, is u daaglikse aanbiedinge. U het altyd ten minste twee items wat elke keer 'n groot glimlag op my gesig kry net om te sien hoe u dit dra.

Ek wou 'n rukkie neem en vertel wat 'n wonderlike aand ons gehad het! U geleentheid het ons verwagtinge ver oortref! Ons ontvang nog steeds komplimente die aand - al 22 gaste was net so bly! Ons bedank u en sien uit na vele nagte by Francesca's!

Dankie vir die wonderlike ete wat u voorberei het vir ons 5de verjaardagete. Ons kon nie vir 'n meer romantiese ervaring gevra het nie. Die kos was wonderlik en ons het 'n onvergeetlike aand gehad.

Julle het almal so hard gewerk en het verlede Saterdag baie moeite gedoen met die troue van my dogter Laney. Die kos was wonderlik en die diens was onvergelykbaar.


Deur Annie Nichols

U is gesond, bedagsaam teenoor die planeet en deernisvol vir diere - so waarom is dit so moeilik om as veganiste in die lewe te navigeer? Van om uit te gaan vir aandete, om by vriende te bly, dit kan 'n uitdaging wees om veganisties in 'n wêreld van karnivore te kook, te eet en sosiaal te verkeer. Hoe om vegan te wees en u vriende te behou bevat 50 resepte wat u vir uself, u vriende en u gesin kan voorberei (sonder om klagtes te hoor!), asook wenke, truuks en wenke om 'n beter veganistiese vegan te wees.


DIE KYNSOPMANIFES | JENN LOUIS

Dit is 'n viering van een van die mees geïnterpreteerde, nederige en geliefde geregte ter wêreld: hoendersop. Met meer as 100 resepte vir hierdie een spesiale maaltyd, wys die genomineerde James Beard, Jenn Louis, vir lesers hoe hoendersop nie net 'n bron van hartverwarmende voeding is nie, maar ook 'n genesing en die uiteindelike uitdrukking van liefde. Met die hoofstukke wat volgens streek en land is opgedeel, bevat The Chicken Soup Manifesto alles van Algerynse Chorba Bayda, Colombiaanse en Panamese Sancocho en Thai Kao Tom Gai tot Spaanse Sopa de Picadillo. Benewens die resepte dek Jenn Louis ook noodsaaklike kennis van hoenders, van die keuse en opberging, tot voorraad 101 en pekel. Die boek is volledig gefotografeer met 'n ontwerp wat dit tot 'n versamelbare voorwerp stel, sowel as 'n hardwerkende gids vir die wêreld se gunsteling sop.

Dit is 'n viering van een van die mees geïnterpreteerde, nederige en geliefde geregte ter wêreld: hoendersop. Met meer as 100 resepte vir hierdie een spesiale maaltyd, wys die genomineerde James Beard, Jenn Louis, vir lesers hoe hoendersop nie net 'n bron van hartverwarmende voeding is nie, maar ook 'n genesing en die uiteindelike uitdrukking van liefde. Met die hoofstukke per streek en land, bevat The Chicken Soup Manifesto alles van Algerynse Chorba Bayda, Colombiaanse en Panamese Sancocho en Thai Kao Tom Gai tot Spaanse Sopa de Picadillo. Tesame met die resepte, dek Jenn Louis ook noodsaaklike kennis van hoender, van seleksie en berging, tot voorraad 101 en pekel. Die boek is volledig gefotografeer met 'n ontwerp wat dit tot 'n versamelbare voorwerp stel, sowel as 'n hardwerkende gids vir die wêreld se gunsteling sop.

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Fees van die sewe groente: vier 'n jaar van vleislose Maandag!

Koreaans gebore en grootgeword in die VSA was afwykend toe die tydige vakansiedae ingestap het. Koreaanse vakansiedae is hier feitlik verlate. My aanvanklike kulinêre tradisies van Thanksgiving het op veertienjarige ouderdom begin, met die hulp van 'n Betty Crocker -kookboek wat by Woolworth's in Flushing, Queens, gekoop is.

Ek het my eerste vakansie -ete vir my ouers, tante, oom en neefs gekook. Die geregte was aartappelpuree met sous, karringmelkbeskuitjies en gevulde kalkoen.

Hier is my volwasse weergawe van kapokaartappels: Aartappelgratin. As ek terugkyk, kan ek nie onthou dat ek daardie jaar groen groente bedien het nie. Die tradisie het tot in my twintigerjare voortgeduur, waar ek tradisionele Amerikaanse vakansiekos ondersoek het wat getroud was met my Koreaanse erfenis, wat as kimchi langsaan vertaal is.

Patjuk word tipies bedien as 'n wintersonstilstandskos in Korea (een van baie min Koreaanse vakansiedae).

Toe ek uiteindelik met 'n Italiaanse Amerikaner trou, het 'n hele kontinent met kos ontstaan ​​en ek het uiteindelik ontdek hoe om seisoenale geregte te geniet, met baie vars plaaslike tamaties, vars kruie en baie goeie kaas. Ek het geleer hoe om my sout in slaaie aan te pas volgens die seisoen, en pasta het veel verder gegaan as spaghetti en gehaktballetjies. Ek het kennis gemaak met die opmaak van marinara -sous, met onderskeidende eienskappe tussen marinara en Sondagsous. Lasagne is lank voor die huwelik van twee kulture ontdek- (ek moet erken dat ek dit vervolmaak het danksy 'n handige ou kopie van 'n NY Times-kookboek wat ek by die Piermont-biblioteek opgetel het toe ek 'n tiener was). Kortom, ek het die afgelope ses jaar die nuwe en opwindende kookkuns bestudeer, porcini -sampioene, risotto, cavetelli, pesto en 'n eindelose repertoire van resepte van familielede en kookboeke ontdek. Ek het uiteindelik gedurende hierdie tyd die groen groente begin kook. Ons tipiese vakansiedae het 'n huwelik (letterlik) van Koreane en Italianers ingesluit. Of dit nou Paasfees, danksegging of Kersfees was. Dit was Italiaanse kos met kimchi as mede-ster.

Kimchi & amp; soja pajeon, courgette pajeon.

As u tuis Koreaanse kos gekook het, was daar baie aanpassings wat gelei het tot die skep van nuut aangepaste disse vir my groot Italiaanse gesin. Ek het uiteindelik so betrokke geraak by kook dat ek ses uur in die kombuis konvensioneel en aanvaarbaar gelyk het. Vir buitestaanders het dit moontlik gelyk of ek absoluut manies was oor kos- dit was omdat ek dit was! Ek was so lief vir kos dat ek by die kookskool ingeskryf het om my kombuisvaardighede regtig te verbeter en 'n professionele sjef te word.

Geroosterde beet met rooi ui en sjampanje vinaigrette.

Verlede jaar het ek Meatless Monday ontdek en toe ek gevra is om 'n vakansiepos vir Food2.com in te dien, het ek my ou handige Betty Crocker -kookboek ingegaan vir advies en Amerikaanse klassieke met 'n draai gekook. Dit was die begin van 'n jaar lange verhouding met seisoenale groente. Hier is ’s a seisoenale geroosterde wortelgroente gereg: (pers aartappels, erfstuk patats, chippolini -uie, knoffel) hieronder:

Hierdie vakansieseisoen vier my eenjarige herdenking deur een dag per week vleisloos te wees! Ek het 'n Kersete voorberei met Koreaanse kos wat as die fees van die sewe groente bedien is! Dit is my Koreaanse weergawe van die klassieke Italiaanse Kersfees -aandete. Kersfees vir Koreane het die afgelope jaar meer gewild geword en hulle het 'n spesiale naam daarvoor (seongtanjeol). Ek het sewe hoofgeregte gemaak, met bypassende sewe bykosse (banchan) vir hierdie spesiale geleentheid. Sommige tradisionele resepte is afkomstig van die koninklike kombuise van die Joseon -dinastie in Korea. Dit was 'n liefdevolle taak- die nege lekkernye in Gujeolpan was 'n bietjie tydrowend.

Ek stel voor dat u uself 'n paar dae kan gee as u dit tuis wil probeer. Begin met Gujeolpan, gebruik die oorblywende groente om japchae te maak, kook jou groente voor die tyd en marineer dit en trek dit reg voor verbruik. As die fees klaar is, kan u die oorblywende banchan die volgende dag in 'n gemengde rysbak (bibimbap) sit.

Geen aandete is ooit voltooi sonder 'n warm pittige sop aan die einde nie! Pittige tofu -sop en bredies is 'n absolute stapelvoedsel van gochugaru, tofu en knoffel. Hierdie weergawe bevat kimchi.

Hier is die sewe Koreaanse bykosse wat ek gemaak het!

Acorn Starch Jelly … lyk soos jello, smaak soos jello- behalwe dat dit 100% vegan is!

Verskeie sampioene met fyngedrukte sesamsaad en#8230

Baby Bok Choy met perilla sade en sesamolie …

Gerasperde Koreaanse rissies met knoffel en#8230

Watter soort Koreaanse maaltyd is volledig sonder kimchi ?! Geen!

Vir nagereg het ek gemaak Songpyeon. 'N Soet en hartige ryskoek. Dit was gewoonlik bedien tydens Chuseok (Koreaanse danksegging volgens die maankalender). Ek werk tans daaraan om 'n opsomming te maak van al die geregte wat ek die afgelope jaar opgetower het vir 'n vegetariese kookboek! Resepte kom binnekort, bly ingeskakel en#8230


Voedsel van Middeleeuse Andalusië en die verdrywing van Spaanse Moslems

Sevilla was saam met Genua, Leghorn (Livorno), Venesië, Ancona en Napels een van die groot kommersiële sentrums van die Middellandse See in die sestiende eeu. Die rykdom van Amerika het uitsluitlik na Sevilla gevloei omdat dit direk in die rigting van die passaatwinde was en 'n wettige monopolie op die handel gehad het. Die grond was produktief, en olywe en wingerde het gedurende die sestiende eeu in die onderste Andalusië floreer. Op daardie stadium was die helfte van die bevolking van Andalusië nog Moslem. Namate Sevilla en Andalusië voorspoedig was, het hulle na buite gekyk. Venesiese ambassadeurs beskryf Andalusië gereeld as 'n wonderlike land. Koring was egter die toonaangewende handelsproduk in Andalusië, maar Sevilla was dikwels tekort, terwyl buurdorpe Puerto de Santa María, Jerez de la Frontera en Málaga oorvloedige voedsel gehad het. Een oplossing vir die krisis in die voedselvoorraad van Sevilla was 'n produk uit die Nuwe Wêreld, die aartappel, hoewel dit eers in die middel van die sewentiende eeu volledig geïntegreer is in die Spaanse kookkuns, waar dit in Bartolomé Estéban Murillo (1617? -1682) voorgestel word. ) skildery met die armes van Sevilla wat uit 'n ketel aartappels eet, die voedsel van die nederiges.

Die bronne vir die voeding van Sevilla, soos met alle stede in die Middellandse See, was beperk tot die gebied binne die karafstand van Sevilla. Vis kom uit Cádiz en ander nabygeleë dorpe aan die kus. Varkvleis kom uit Ronda, Aracena en ander dorpe aan die rand van die Sierra Nevada en Sierra Morena. Rys was van Valencia en rosyne kom van Almería. Koring kom van plaaslike plase, en 'n bietjie van Frankryk en Noord -Afrika, en 'n bietjie kaas is later uit Duitsland, Vlaandere en die Kanaries ingevoer. Aan die begin van die sewentiende eeu was daar 'n afname in die Andalusiese landbou, en die verskaffing van huishoudelike na ingevoerde. Teen 1617 kom soutvark uit Ierland en soutbees uit Vlaandere.
Teen die middel van die sestiende eeu het die Genoes die Amerikaanse handel beheer en 'n kragtige invloed op die ekonomiese lewe van Sevilla uitgeoefen vanweë hul beter begrip van die meganismes van finansiering en hul toegang tot kapitaal. Die samelewing in Sevilla was besig om te verander van 'n Middeleeuse een waarin die adel sy deugde in terme van dapperheid gedefinieer het, na een waar winsmaak 'n nuwe klas mense gemotiveer het om luukse items te bekom en goed te leef. Die bevolking van Sevilla was negentigduisend in 1594, dit was die grootste stad in Spanje. Die Guadalquivir -rivier was die bron van die ekonomiese lewe van Sevilla en het die wonderlike rykdom van Indië na die stad gebring.

Bartolomé Estéban Murillo se skildery van St. Diego van Alcala wat die armes voed

Skorsing
Binnekort sou die aard van Sevilla en Valencia en die hele Spanje en die stad en die land vir ewig verander word. Die Lérida -vlakte word nog bewerk filāḥīn in die sestiende eeu, net soos die Rioja in die Ebro -vallei. Die filāḥīn was die boerboere wat oorspronklik Moslem was, maar hulle tot die Christendom bekeer het. Dit was die Moriscos, die naam wat aan die afstammelinge van die bekeerde Moslems gegee is. Die filāḥīn, net soos die Lombard -ryswerkers, baie arm was. In die Middellandse See was die rykes baie ryk en die armes baie arm. U kan dit vandag sien in Marokko, waar die rykes groot dele olyf- en arganbome besit.
Uiteindelik is selfs die Moriscos uit Spanje verdryf in die laaste groot verdrywing van 1609-1614. In 1609 was die Moriscos verantwoordelik vir 'n derde van die totale bevolking van Valencia. Alhoewel hulle Valencia se vrugbare huertas (groot groentetuine) beheer het, was daar geen georganiseerde weerstand teen hul onderdrukking sonder 'n aristokrasie om hulle te lei nie. Daar was af en toe opstand, soos een op Kersnag in Granada in 1568, maar die besluit om enige Moslem -teenwoordigheid in Spanje uit te roei, is reeds deur Philip II in Granada geneem. Moslemkostuums is verbied, Arabies praat is verbode, vroue is verbied om die sluier te dra en alle spore van die Moslem -beskawing is verdryf. Teen 1614 is driehonderdduisend Moriscos uit die totale bevolking van agt miljoen verdryf.

Boere uit 'n Middeleeuse Arabies-Andalusiese landbouhandleiding

Hulle is geskors omdat hulle nooit geassimileer is nie, en hulle is gehaat daarvoor. But hatred could not wipe out the thousands of Arabic words and places names in Spain, the dark black eyes of the Andalusians, nor the rich, evocative cuisine that conveys the taste of the celestial paradise of the dar al-Islam (house of peace), as so many Andalusian culinary preparations demonstrate.


Friday, January 1, 2010

Movies that make you want to eat!

I think there's a reason movies that involve food and cooking are largely well-received. They make you think of 'nesting' as my friend L told me tonight when we went to see, It's Complicated. It totally brought to mind an intense desire to make chocolate croissants, lavender ice cream and also to find one of my favorites – lavender water. In addition, it made me want share all of those treats with someone or a group of someone's. I told L, I wanted to start having dinner nights with my girlfriends and that brought to mind a book I've been meaning to read about a group of girlfriends who did so for over 10 years and then wrote a book about their time together – I cannot remember the name right now but it will come to me or I'll find it on my endless book list. If you are like me and tend to keep list upon list in notebook upon notebook, one way to keep track of your book list is through goodreads.com, it allows you to make your list and link up with friends and others who can recommend things you may like to read. But, I digress (get used to it), another film with food that I love is Under the Tuscan Sun, it is one of my top go to feel good movies. No matter what, someone building something – in the case of this film and the film we saw tonight, a new life – and making food as part of it, bringing people to a table, bringing people together to talk and laugh…it just makes me feel good. It makes me so jealous that my mom knows how to cook. She's one of those people who can open anyone's fridge, check out what's inside and then make a meal James Beard would be proud – and likely envious – of. It's disgusting! I need to take some classes so I can show off in the kitchen, I want to earn an apron from my mom and checking out these movies is definitely inspiring! I need to look up some classes in the area and check out what's cooking – literally!

It seems like everyone goes to Paris or Italy to fall in love with food. Since I can't afford Paris or Italy right now, I'll stick with my movies…for now.

On Spanx…

According to Business Week, Americans spend $40 billion dollars a year on weight lose products and programs = damn. As a contributor to that industry, I'd like to say – where are the results. The answer may be found in the products used to 'shield, hide, cover, and any number of words which can be used to describe those products which don't encourage health and really don't encourage reality but instead, encourage otherwise unhealthy and exercise averse people, to fool themselves into thinking they look damn good! The latest craze and culprit to lure in the gluttonous masses, of which CNN.com reports that 1/3 of Americans are overweight, are the product line known as Spanx. These modern-day girdles are a menace! Why you ask, considering that there was a time that a woman who didn't wear a girdle would have been considered a harlot. I'll tell you why…as someone who needs to lose weight, get healthy and fit – I recognize that the way to that Holy Grail of health is not through a product line. In fact, the product line creates an illusion of curves and slimming that you only recognize as a lie when you take the damn thing off and allow your body to breathe! The seemingly endless line of Spanx and Spanx knock-off products may indeed prove to be man-magnets but also chastity guards when your man gets you in bed and comes up against some granny tights! Furthermore, they have been developed to promote ease of access – I almost fell off my chair when one of my friends eloquently described to me the many virtues of easy access, crotch-less Spanx. Now, let me make one thing clear, I'm not against Spanx or any other product line of girdles out there – I think, as in all things, they serve a wonderful purpose when used properly.

By properly, I mean not for weight control or in lieu of taking your ass to the gym. Let me tell you a story, I was at the gym a couple weeks ago and after a grueling hour long work-out on the treadmill (whoop-whoop), on my way back to the locker room one of the women who hands out towels looked at me and waved me over. Now, I'd seen her around before, she was constantly selling something or peddling some new business venture she was working with – who knew there were so many Avon-esq knock-offs out there – and that day was no different. As I got closer she lifted up her shirt, while I was taken aback thinking she wanted to show me something I'd rather not see what did I spy under her shirt – a girdle! She told me, she could 'hook me up' because 'nobody has time to be working out all day' – mind you, I had just finished a work-out, I had invested in making myself work-out, and she worked at a freakin' gym and had carte blanche to all the things she needed to work-out. Apparently, the girdle was a good substitute for good-old sweat! Maybe that's because people tend to sweat when they're wearing them, so I've been told – I've never worn one at my current size because I don't feel it would be the proper way to use a girdle.

So what is proper? The points, Spanx should not be worn if the seams start tearing as you put them on, they should not be worn for weight control, they should not be worn as an alternative to working-out (this isn't a sweat suit in a sauna people), in short – they should not be worn as a means to convince yourself that you are fit and healthy because suddenly after squeezing yourself into it, you have curves! If you literally 'fall out' of the girdle as soon as it comes off, you should consider changing your habits a little bit. Girdles should be worn to deal with those troubled spots you can't seem to fully work-out regardless of how hard you try, there's a reason why celebrities wear them on the red carpet, because everyone has spots that they can't quite work-out and that's natural. But, you shouldn't wear them as a substitute because you shouldn't NEED to wear them as the only way to fit into any of your clothes.

And this brings me to the point of this post – one of my friends told me she NEEDED to wear Spanx because without them she didn't feel normal. Ok, I get it, it gave her the body she had circa 2003. But, that wasn't her body now. She didn't want to put in the energy to change her lifestyle, the drinking, eating whatever you want, no exercise, etc. She'd try and then get over it very quickly…all things considered, not a good way to get back your circa 2003 body! The moral of that story is, you have to work! You have to commit to working hard and not just drop $40-50 on a pair of Spanx to cover-up the fact that you aren't working to do anything about the fact that you don't like your body. I think people should work hard to get to their 'natural' state of being, whether you should be a size 2 or 12, everyone has a size that they are comfortable with where they can look at themselves in the mirror and say 'damn, I look good' and know that it's not just that they look good, but that they feel good, and they are good because they are healthy. When you get to that point then by all means, put one some Spanx to give you some extra support because even size 2's need it! But, if you're using it as a cover-up for bad health…then you're lying to yourself, it's like thinking make-up takes your zits away…ummm, no. Or thinking that just because you have Spanx to rely on you really can fit your clothes…again, no. If you NEED Spanx to fit your clothes, your clothes aren't what's problematic…you are. The point is to not nodig het Spanx, but to be able to love your body without them.

Desire is good but…

I had an intriguing conversation with one of my friends last night it was on the subject of having the desire to do things vs. what is needed to accomplish the things you want to do. Chris argued anyone can do anything they want in life so long as they have a strong enough desire to do it. While, I countered that – I agreed, anyone can do anything they want to however, voicing a desire to do something doesn't lead to someone actually doing it unless they have a plan in mind on how to get there. Chris didn't believe you had to have a plan set in stone and that you could just 'wing it', I call foul to that idea. I think you can 'wing' a lot of things, in the sense that you don't know what opportunities, challenges, obstacles, etc. which will be put in your path to get where you want to go…but without some plan, even a seemingly weak one, you won't achieve your goals.

I don't know if anyone would agree with me but I'm the kind of person who can't stand the planners of the word, the seemingly endless supply of couch geniuses and active visionaries who come up with brilliant ideas but have to rely on other people to make them a reality. Or worse, who come up with endless things that they can do, could do better than…, or want to do but in the course of all that talking they end up doing nothing. One of the worst flaws in being human is that we have the ability to waste our potential. This is an even greater flaw among people who have endless opportunities to achieve and find the potential within them and do not take advantage of anything. I cannot stand planners, if you don't want to achieve anything then shut up about your dreams and desires to do stuff. One of my brothers used to do that, he'd sit around and anytime someone told him they could do something he'd immediately say "I could do that too, if I wanted to." Rubbish, the point is, if you could do it – you would. If you wanted to do it, you would. If all you want to do is sit around and talk about what's possible, then good for you – you're a philosopher. I hear those are in high demand these days. But, the point is, taking about what is possible without making it a reality is a wasted opportunity and wasting your potential is a crime against humanity…when all that anyone can contribute, thoughts and acts, is needed. Tydperk.

I like making lists, but making lists wouldn't really be the best use of my time if I didn't have the satisfaction of crossing things off and replacing them with something new. I'm all for people having dreams and desires, I think you can do anything you want in the world. and ask anyone who knows me – I want to do EVERYTHING. But, I recognize, I will achieve nothing if I don't attach a means to accomplish my goals to my desires…desire is good…but you need a plan of action. So ask yourself the question, what must I do before I die? Then write your list of all the things you want to do, and find a way to achieve it. Because it's true, you can do anything you set your mind to. I can prove it…

The 𔃶’ meals a day dilemma

If you're going to give up eating really large meals – like that 'appetizer' that looks like the size of the first course for a baby T-Rex at The Cheesecake Factory – and replace them with 5-6 smaller meals throughout the day, there is one dilemma you may find yourself running into. I call it, the "exhaustion" dilemma. To put it in simple terms, it is EXHAUSTING eating all day. And that my friends, is the point because you are spending the entire day, grazing like livestock, you find yourself falling into the routine of it and your body does not crave baby T-Rex sized meals which in turn means you are allowing your body to adjust to not taking in enough calories and garbage to run a village in one sitting. However, I have found that while it is very good to (a) learn what my bad habits are – I have been a part of the 2 larger meals a day group, it is equally difficult to break said habits. Especially when the 'cure' involves shoveling food in my face all day! Mind you, the alternative foods are 3 small meals and 3 snacks, but that is still A LOT going in.

So, what works for me? The fact that half of my three meals a day are consumed while I'm at work means that I have to come up with ways to PREP and ways to keep myself engaged in the act of eating. Seems obvious enough but I actually have to force myself to eat because it is very easy for me to forget to eat when I get busy (hence the 2 big meals a day bad habit). So, I've taken to eating my snacks 'on-the-go', it's a good time to get up, stretch a little bit, and half the time my snack consists of a piece of string cheese or something else I've put in the fridge down the hall from my office, so I have to get up to get it anyways. So, I'm able to migrate around, say hello to colleagues and eat on my feet, this helps me to eat my snacks.

Another thing that works, is finding ways to eat a 'hot' breakfast on the go. It is the most important meal of the day, I'm slowly developing a pattern – a novel thing called a schedule that doesn't consist of a mad dash in the morning but a more structured routine – I feel like I'm taking a page right out of Mad Men and slowing down the pace as a woman in the kitchen in the morning. I've found, anything with one egg is good for me to grab and go, on that note – one recipe I would suggest is simple, perfect and the result fits in the palm of your hand, just grab a napkin, wrap it up and dash out the door and you have your hot breakfast on the go:

1 small whole wheat English muffin (I like mine toasted)

1 tblspn shredded cheddar cheese

*if you want your salsa fresh, prep a salsa or bruschetta mix the night before and bring whatever's left over into work with some crackers for a mid-day snack.

This is super easy and if you time it correctly, you'll be able to put the egg on the muffin right before heading out the door on your way into work. The point is, it's exhausting eating all day, so why not make it easier on yourself by making it simple – pack easy snacks and if you're someone like me who's constantly on the go – then make your selections based on what you can eat on the go!


Emeril goes Coastal

MIRAMAR BEACH – When news broke this spring that world-renowned chef and local resident Emeril Lagasse was going to open a restaurant in town, he said he wanted to keep things as local as possible. Fast forward a few months, and Lagasse has kept his promise at his 14th restaurant, Emeril’s Coastal Italian. The James Beard Award-winner has hired 120 local people, is serving locally sourced product as often as possible, and is really trying to cater to local residents.

James Beard Award Winner Chef Emeril Lagasse
Photo Courtesy of Sara Essex Bradley

Making his own trends

In an area like the Emerald Coast, where so much emphasis is placed on “the season” (serving tourists from spring break until Labor Day) Lagasse said he wants “Coastal” – as he affectionately calls the eatery – to be a great restaurant year-round.

“I purposely pushed not opening until the end of the season to not only do the construction right, but I didn’t want my staff to get in that mindset,” he said. “That’s the mindset out there in the community, you know, we’re going to make a lot of money between Memorial Day and Labor Day, and then we coast. That’s not how I operate.”

Lagasse said they’re already looking forward to specials for Thanksgiving, possibly something for the Italian-American Feast of the Seven Fishes around Christmas, New Year’s Eve events and beyond.

“We’re just going to be a great restaurant for locals, for them to come and enjoy and have fun, order multiple dishes, and talk,” he said.

Lagasse is also bucking the trend of stodgy, structured meals, eaten during fixed times, and costing a pretty penny. In a market where many of his competitors rate four dollar signs on Yelp, you’ll only find one entrée over $25 on the menu at Coastal. The staff opens the doors at 11:30, and won’t close them until 10 p.m. (10:30 on Fridays and Saturdays).

“That’s an Emeril Lagasse trend. I think that’s how people want to eat,” Lagasse explained. “I just feel today that these rules that we’re open from 11:30 to 2, and then we’re closed, then we reopen at 5:30 – people are tired of that. People are tired of being dictated what to do, what to eat, how to order. They’re over that. Now, if you want to go to Daniel, The French Laundry, you want to go to Del Posto, that’s a different story. I want people to come here more than once a week.”

There he goes again

Chef admitted that although this is his 14th restaurant, the task of opening doesn’t get any easier, especially when customers walk in the door with such high expectations on Week 1.

“It’s been a little overwhelming,” the chef admitted, after closing up the restaurant at 1 a.m. the night before. “It’s like having a baby. I’m getting ready to have a 1-year-old with Meril (his contemporary American restaurant in New Orleans) in a couple weeks. Here at Coastal, it’s like giving birth and we’ve had the whole process all over again.

“We have a brand new staff we trained for three weeks. They’re trying to adjust to how we do business, our system. Overall, we’re very, very happy. Most people are happy and we’re trying to move that percentage up more and more every day.”

Speaking of the staff, Lagasse has brought a few heavy hitters from Emeril’s Homebase in New Orleans for the opening, including his director of culinary and right-hand-man, Chris Wilson. Local chef Shane Quinlan was hired to fill the roll of chef de cuisine and will lead the kitchen when the proverbial dust settles.

Chef de Cuisine Shane Quinlan
Photo Courtesy of Emeril’s Coastal Italian

Bringing the tastes of Italy – all of them

Lagasse said his culinary team drew inspiration from the Amalfi Coast of southern Italy when crafting Coastal’s menu, but in the Italian tradition, they were open to neighboring flavors, too.

“Amalfi plays a big part in the gulf they’re on with their seafood, and so when I was there last year shooting my show ‘Eat the World with Emeril Lagasse,’ for Amazon, I got super inspired,” he said. “But there’s a little influence of Tuscany, of Sicily, so there are little accents. It’s not just straight-on.

“That’s the way it is in Italy, you know? You can be in Tuscany but you’re still getting great seafood from the North. They’re like that with their wines as well. There are certain things like the sweet and sour, the lemon and the orange – those kinds of accents that we’ve incorporated in the menu.”

Don’t come to Coastal expecting Ye Olde Italian fare, though. Lagasse’s team has left off many of the more “traditional Italian” dishes many Americans may expect.

“Chicken Parmesan, veal Parmesan, that stuff hasn’t quite made the menu,” he said. “Maybe we’ll do that stuff as a special – pork Milanese, veal chop Milanese, you know.”

The black pasta in the Fettuccine Nero gets its distinctive black color from squid ink, and is topped with Calabrain chiles, almond and crabmeat.

Instead, look for Fettuccine Nero, featuring Calabrian chiles, almond, crabmeat and some very distinctive black pasta, compliments of squid ink. There’s a Parmesan-Crusted Snapper in a red sauce a Tuscan Steak with arugula, garlic, lemon and olive oil and the Kurobuta Pork Porterhouse Chop with Cubanelle pepper and an onion salad.

Two dishes on the pasta menu bear the name of two of Lagasse’s children. Meril’s Linguine & Clams features guanciale, blistered tomato and oregano while E.J.’s Rigatoni is topped with shrimp, broccoli and a house-made Italian sausage ragout.

Guanciale, an Italian cured meat, offers a savory meatiness to Meril’s Linguine & Clams, served with blistered tomato and oregano.

Again, Lagasse is hoping diners will order several things to share, and there is an entire small plates menu to do just that. The Upside-Down Cornbread with pineapple and pancetta is an interesting mix of sweet and savory. The Stuffed Fried Olives come with pork rillettes and garlic aioli, while the Steamed Mussels give you a taste of the sea, prepared with white wine, tomato, garlic and arugula. Off the bruschetta menu, Lagasse’s Cajun Caviar Bruschetta tops a baguette with Cajun caviar, egg salad and crème fraîche.

Even as early as Week 1, Quinlan and the kitchen were turning out specials, like the lion fish, fried Italian-style with smoked tomato sauce, olive relish, and a yellow pepper coulis. Using this unique yet notoriously invasive protein, Lagasse hopes to improve the community one plate at a time.

“We’re helping out as much as we can with the reefs,” he said. “I spend time in south Florida in the winter fishing, and that’s when I learned lion fish are a nuisance. They have no predators and they’re really attacking. All of a sudden, the migration in the past couple years, now they’re here in Destin. We’re doing our part, and it’s delicious!”

Time for something sweet – and different

In addition to house-made gelatos, sorbetos, cookies and biscotti, Lagasse worked with his pastry chefs Jeremy Fogg and Amy Lemon to “Emerilize” traditional Italian desserts for the Dolce Tazzas – or sweet cups.

“I don’t want to just do just banana cream pie, coconut cream pie and key lime pie. I want to break it up,” Lagasse explained. “We took every dessert and deconstructed it, and then we rebuilt it in the style of the Italian way. All of the components are there.”

As an example, the pastry program has turned out its own take on banana cream pie, all layered in a glass.

The Banana Cream Pie on the Dolce Tazza menu is Emeril’s deconstructed take on a traditional pie, served in a glass.

“You have the graham cracker crust, you have the banana, you have the pastry cream, the whipped cream, the caramel and the chocolate, so when you go in with the spoon, you get every one of those sensations, but it’s completely different,” the chef said with a sparkle in his eye.

Setting the scene

Also sparkling is the Mediterranean, coastal-themed interior, courtesy of Lagasse’s wife Alden with local design house Lovelace Interiors, and architects Geoff Chick and Jeff Margaretten. Soft, beachy grays mix with light and dark wood and modern light fixtures to set the tone for the meal. The kitchen is open, allowing guests to watch their meals being prepared. The chef’s counter is especially exciting when Lagasse himself is on the line. You may even spot his teenage son E.J. in the kitchen, when he’s not in school.

New Orleans artist Landon Lott created a pair of fine art “street graffiti” pieces to set the scene for the new Grand Boulevard restaurant.

The north wall features original sea life “street graffiti” with a fine art twist, created by Savannah College of Art and Design alum Landon Lott. Lott got his foot in the door, so to speak, after doing black and white murals at Meril last year. The pieces created such a buzz, Lagasse and Alden asked Lott to work his magic at Coastal.

Miramar Beach-based Lovelace Interiors – with help from Emeril’s wife, Alden – transformed the dining area into a warm and inviting space with a beachy, Mediterranean vibe.

Additional artwork includes a massive antique Italian piece in the private dining room from the Lagasses’ personal collection, as well as work from Watersound-based artist Allison Wickey.

Onward and upward

With two restaurants under a year old, television programs and all the other pots that Lagasse is currently stirring, you might expect him to stop and take a breath. Instead, he’s planning the massive Boudin, Bourbon and Beer event Nov. 3 in New Orleans. He’s in the middle of completely renovating his French Quarter restaurant NOLA after 20 years, with plans to reopen later this month, and he hinted at plans to change up one of his Vegas concepts in the near future.

Lagasse senses the winds of change may be coming to the South Walton dining scene, too. Fellow James Beard winner John Currence also opened a restaurant this year: Big Bad Breakfast in Inlet Beach. Could that be the sign of things to come? Lagasse thinks it might.

“I have a lot of respect for all the chefs here – don’t misunderstand me – but I think that the area is getting ready to change,” Lagasse admitted. “I think the whole dining scene is going to begin to evolve – and it needs to.”

Emeril’s Coastal Italian, located at 435 Grand Boulevard, Miramar Beach, is open seven days a week for both lunch and dinner.


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